Showing posts with label The Hard graft. Show all posts
Showing posts with label The Hard graft. Show all posts

Monday, 14 October 2013

JC Report: The Dynamic Aesthetic of Art Comes First



Art Comes First is a dynamic fashion collective founded by self-taught designers Sam Lambert and Shaka Maidoh. Having already garnered the support of sartorial superstars such as Ghanaian menswear designer Ozwald Boateng, the duo’s unfaltering art first approach to fashion is steadily gaining the respect of fashion luminaries around the world. Their is a natural chemistry between Lambert and Maidoh; the two innately complement one and others aesthetic, and that of their collaborators. This, coupled with the “revolving”, synergetic philosophy of the collective is most clearly translated in ACF’s mission statement. Put simply, and in Lambert and Maidoh’s own words; the duo is seeking the ”circulation of sartorial nourishment and the oxygenation of time-based projects through dynamic collaborations with different creatives in their network.”

 The staunch emphasis on the creative capabilities and dynamism of a group, and a dedication to creating simply for the sake of expressing creative energy is the crux of ACF’s work, and a huge portion of what makes the collectives body of work so impressive and fresh. Their most recent projects have been shown at Pitti Uomo, The Copenhagen International Fashion Fair and The Liberty Tradeshow in Las Vegas. One such project dubbed”The Hard Graft: The DJ Technique Applied to Menswear” is a nostalgic ode to a bygone era, and a simultaneous demonstration of the versatility of repurposed vintage threads. Every garment presented was bought from vintage and thrift stores before being deconstructed and re-imagined under the careful eye of a team comprised of Lambert, Maidoh, Matteo Gioli of Superduper hats, and Liam Maher who is head designer for Denham Jeans. As a longtime collaborator with ACF, Maher in particular has exerted much influence over past projects, and worked very closely with Lambert and Maidoh–who describe him as a mentor–in designing the clothes found in The Hard Graft presentation. Maher’s wife Jennifer also became part of the team, helping with logistics, providing creative direction, photography and anything in between.

It comes as no surprise vintage garments often take front and center with Art Comes First as both Lambert and Maidoh have a penchant for 60′s dandy style. In fact, Lambert’s background in fashion blossomed from his love of vintage clothes, which he would buy and self-tailor. He eventually even purchased a pattern cutting book to teach himself the basic principles of design. While some of ACF’s more eclectic offerings can take on an almost costume-esque edge, they still maintain an inherent vintage charm and a thoughtful, present aesthetic. Artfully deconstructed garments meld modern preferences with the best of classic American workwear, Savile Row quality tailoring and gentleman-dandy style. With a full site set to launch this September, a freshly unveiled collection available to the public, and countless other projects in the works, Art Comes Firsts inspired approach to menswear is certainly something to watch.


 Source: The JC Report

Wednesday, 11 September 2013

Show report: New hype at the Blue Zone


Munich Fabric Start 3 – 5 September, M.O.C. Centre, Munich. 

This years edition of the Blue Zone - the denim section of MFS – met with positive reviews for its revamped trend area, new inspiration area; CUBE X, and its new events program (See our preview). Although the show was not crowded the atmosphere was busy and positive. Attendance was in line with previous editions and booths were visited regularly by insiders. In addition to the many German visitors, there has been an increase in insiders from northern and southern Europe, including people from creative teams of brands such as Max Mara Group and Diesel. The yearly Oktoberfest event that traditionally closes the Blue Zone was highly successful with guests celebrating, dancing and having fun all night long. Among trends, the German market continues to focus its attention on stretch fabrics and coloured denims. Contrary to this, the general trend in the denim market sees a slowed down request for coloured denim and a gradual return to vintage, aged and visibly rugged denims. Thanks to these signs the atmosphere of the denim market seems to be generally recovering. This is in part due to an increased interest in vintage denim. The most interesting part of Blue Zone was CUBE X. Devised by Piero Turk, the inspiring area hosted talks by various insiders and specialists from the denim sector (See our pre-reportage).

The conferences were always crowded. Highly inspiring was the design lesson conducted by Liam Maher, design director, Denham the jeanmaker, Amsterdam, entitled The Creativity Process. The expert explained how he proceeds when designing Denham collections, referring to a recent exhibition that he worked on with Sam Lambert & Shaka Maidoh, founders of A.C.F. - Art Comes First (artcomesfirst.com), who debuted at Pitti Uomo in Florence in June 2013, and have shown also in NY, Brighton and Boston. Maher believes that designing menswear has many similarities with the work of a DJ remixing standards from the canon of jazz and pop music. "The work of the menswear designer is to try and harmonize the most potent influences from their vintage research within a single contemporary concept," he commented. So he presented how a single item or outfit can include elements taken from different product segments, countries and decades. "I believe in the importance of worshipping tradition because it teaches us how important quality is, although we don't want to look backwards every day. I believe that is also important to destroy conventions. This is the way to create modern garments with a sense of history."

 Also noteworthy was the selection of garments presented by Blue Jeans, Italian specialist launderers, and by Chuck's Vintage, the Los Angeles based store most appreciated by denim insiders for the vast offer of rare vintage garments and denim pieces that owner Madeline Harmon constantly selects, sells or lends to fashion insiders and music and movie stars. A special innovation was also launched during the show by another insider of the fashion and denim market MIC. The Italian sewing thread manufacturer has just launched MIC Master, a special app for iPad and iPad Mini through which designers can take images of clothing items, see how different threads look on each single garment, order samples of the threads they like and have them delivered to their studios within one or two days.

Maria Cristina Pavarini
Source: http://www.sportswearnet.com/businessnews/pages/protected/Show-report-New-hype-at-the-Blue-Zone_7239.html

Monday, 9 September 2013

Art Comes First | Pitti Uomo 84 | Florence | The DJ Project | Menswear


Art Comes First, a group of creatives who I first saw at Pitti Uomo 83. They impressed me so much that I spent day after day visiting their stand and their stylish chess players who form part of the ACF creatives, then introducing "The Coal Project". At Pitti Uomo 84 the ACF group, composed by founders Sam Lambert and Shakah Maidog with Matteo Gioli from Super Duper Hats iand Liam Maher from Denham, presented "The DJ Project", applying the DJ technique of mixing, vintage pieces, new fabrics, cutting, sewing and remaking all together, once again combing art and fashion, with the tradition of menswear design with processes of the future. Their vision for this project is a hybrid, looking for inspiration from the music vinyl legends of the past with tailoring techniques of today. This time round they had a room, sort of gallery and at the same time an installation with wo


Next up is launching their website, their Spring/Summer collection, globe trotting the world and who knows ... They are creative geniuses at work! http://www.artcomesfirst.com/

Source

Friday, 30 August 2013

ART COMES FIRST AT CIFF CRYSTAL HALL, COPENHAGEN BY SELECTISM


For a second season, Selectism traveled to Denmark to experience the Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF), a trade show and exhibition that shines light on the Scandinavian capital city and its forward approach to high end fashion and sportswear. We look specifically at CIFF‘s Crystal Hall, showcasing a select grouping of brands that provide a glimpse into the emerging talents of today. Copenhagen could not be a better host city for this showcase. In our first of two looks from CIFF, we spend time with Art Comes First, a rotating collective of designers, founded by Shaka Maidoh, Sam Lambert, who share a similar love in “researching” and “grafting” garments new and old to develop new concepts and designs or as they put it, to “try to find new expressions” for the modern day.

At CIFF‘s Crystal Hall, Maidoh and Lambert were joined by Liam Maher, a self-proclaimed “designer revisionist” and design director at Denham, and Milanese hatter, Matteo Gioli for the CIFF Crystal Hall exhibition – a continuation of their displays from Pitti Uomo and Liberty Show in New York City. Following the long legacy of DJ’s “crate digging” for obscure and hard to find, records, the Art Comes First collective spent time “flipping through hangers” at vintage stores in London, Amsterdam, Brighton, New York and beyond, bringing their find to Copenhagen for modern re-working inside Crystal Hall. We share this view into their work and constructions.



By Jeff Carvalho FOR SELECTISM

Friday, 16 August 2013

The ACF Revolving Collective – THE HARD GRAFT by Copenhagers




The ACF Revolving Collective Presents: THE HARD GRAFT (The DJ Technique Applied To Menswear) Explained by Liam Maher of Denham -

Produced by Copenhagers, Film &  Edit: Mattia Abeni .

In occasion of latest CIFF Trade Show here in Copenhagen we got the honor and pleasure to pay a visit the the A.C.F. (Art Comes First) rotating Collective while they were presenting their latest project: THE HARD GRAFT. We talked to Liam and Jennifer Maher from Denahm about it and put together a lovely explanatory video about it. .


THE DJ TECHNIQUE APPLIED TO MENSWEAR . A Collaboration Between Sam Lambert and Shaka Maidoh with Matteo Gioli and Liam Maher. Progressing the tradition of menswear design from the past through the present into the future involves a process of hybridization, grafting, sampling and mixology. Like a DJ digging through classic vinyl, remixing standards from the jazz and pop musical canon, menswear designers attempt to harmonize the most potent influences from their vintage research within a single contemporary concept. Sam and Shaka of Art Comes First step into the atelier with Matteo Gioli of SuperDuper Hats and Liam Maher of Denham to cut, scratch, sample and mix vintage menswear in a demonstration of the DJ Technique Applied to Menswear. Lambert, Maidoh, Gioli and Maher will working toward a creative synthesis of sartorial and workwear influences that reflect each of their individual design obsessions. . Scratching with Sewing Needles: Each day of the event hybrid designs will evolve within a nomadic atelier. . Each day finished pieces will be styled into a focused exhibit of looks inspired by the men who progressed modern music from yesterday’s legends like Thelonious Monk to contemporary pioneers like Yasijn Bey.

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ART COMES FIRST
Super Duper Hats
DENHAM
Copenhagen International Fashion Fair: CIFF 

SOURCE: COPENHAGERS 

Tuesday, 30 July 2013

Hypebeast: Art Comes First “The Hard Graft” Recap


Recapping on the recent “The Hard Graft” presentation by The A.C.F (Art Comes First) Revolving Collective sees a blend of vintage, workwear and sartorial menswear on display. Stemming from the method DJs use to mix beats, the project had a number of designers hybridize and blend different menswear influences to harmonious results. The event consisted of live demonstrations and an exhibition, and will continue on its tour throughout August at CIFF in Copenhagen (August 8-11) and Liberty Fair in Las Vegas (August 19-21).


Author: Alex Lendrum / Photographer: Paul Tamayo/Hypebeast
Source: http://hypebeast.com/2013/7/art-comes-first-the-hard-graft-recap